By Rebecca Nelson, MD MSc FRCSC
Plastic & Reconstructive Surgeon
Years ago, as a medical student, I spent a month working for a dermatologist who carried a large line of cosmetic skin products in his clinic. At the time, lip plumpers had just hit the market and were selling like wildfire. I had the chance to try one out, and within moments of applying my lips began to tingle and burn (as expected). However, when I looked in the mirror to check out the result several minutes later, I was unpleasantly surprised. Although my lips felt different, I couldn’t see any change in size. An hour later, they looked the same. That led me to ask the following: do these products actually work, and if so, how?
Lip plumpers are cosmetic products designed to give the lips an increased appearance of fullness. They are generally made from skin irritants which cause blood vessel dilation due to direct skin irritation (contact dermatitis) or a non-allergic hive-like reaction (non-immunologic contact urticaria.) Common ingredients include essential oils of spices such as cayenne pepper (capsicum) and cinnamon, both of which are classified as skin irritants. Other ingredients include blood vessel dilators such as niacin or Vitamin B3, and L-arginine. Peptides and collagen can also be found in lip plumpers. Naturally occurring collagen in our skin binds water molecules and increases it’s humidity; it also maintains our skin integrity and youthfulness. Peptides are thought to interact with molecules inside our skin cells to increase the amount of collagen produced. That being said, few studies done in humans on peptides applied to the lips show an actual increase in lip volume. One study however showed that a difference in lip fullness could be achieved by using a combination of peptides/hyaluronic acid/human growth factors followed by a second treatment with niacin/essential fatty acids. The lip regimen was made by SkinMedica.
One note of caution: lip plumpers cause skin irritation when applied anywhere on the body. There are reports in the medical literature of skin reactions (i.e. hives or rash) in children and adults occurring on the cheek after being kissed by someone wearing lip plumper. Beware the lip plumper if you plan on smooching anyone else!
Lip fullness is associated with youth and beauty. Studies of female models over time have shown that increased lip fullness has become more desirable. If you are looking for a product that is fun to try, low-risk and that won’t blow the bank – try a lip plumper. However, if you are expecting significant change or lasting results, you may need to look into something else. Stay tuned for the next article on lip rejuvenation…. Where we’ll discuss longer-lasting lip plumping methods such as fillers & fat grafting!